tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-92171506860906231362024-03-08T15:51:09.786-06:00Applescotty's ScrapbookA digital scrapbook of ideas or projects I've found that I want to remember.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-67533292373988697372015-05-07T14:33:00.002-05:002015-05-07T14:33:12.007-05:00Instrument Makers VicesOn the HSM forum, RobWilson <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=981813#post981813">posted</a> about the instrument makers vices he made:
Here are a set of instrument makers vices I made a wile back.
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jn2w-zYR6uQ/VUu8eyxSbPI/AAAAAAAAKng/psiSrIeLodA/s800/instrument_makers_vices_01.jpg" />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P_pBXlNbc9c/VUu8e29PtVI/AAAAAAAAKns/wdW_TV1mz38/s800/instrument_makers_vices_02.jpg" />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Y5J2hNvTtbM/VUu8exXRe-I/AAAAAAAAKnc/HdvczXYhi5s/s800/instrument_makers_vices_03.jpg" />
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<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8e2kTfiGKso/VUu8fT7FRBI/AAAAAAAAKnk/R-wew1C-0hc/s800/instrument_makers_vices_04.jpg" />
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Great for holding wee parts wile there being worked on .
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These are nicely made and look like they would be perfect for holding smaller parts.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-56080332072526182832014-09-03T12:59:00.000-05:002014-09-10T12:31:12.078-05:00Low profile milling clampsstefang <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=934912#post934912">posted</a> on the HSM forum about his low profile milling clamps:<br>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EUyVkwQcA3k/VAdTQWaIK6I/AAAAAAAAIF0/W24m41RwPVM/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EUyVkwQcA3k/VAdTQWaIK6I/AAAAAAAAIF0/W24m41RwPVM/s1600/1.jpg" /></a>
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wyHgeyxyGbQ/VAdTQc42VWI/AAAAAAAAIF4/Qy3WAcv3-tU/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wyHgeyxyGbQ/VAdTQc42VWI/AAAAAAAAIF4/Qy3WAcv3-tU/s1600/2.jpg" /></a>
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Arthur.Marks later <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=936294#post936294">posted</a> in response to a question about the source of the design that it seemed to be from:<br>
"<a href="http://www.amf.de/">AMF</a> - a German workholding company. They have a number of other unique, low-profile designs. Peruse <a href="http://www.itbona-machinetool.com/Pull-down-clamps-s/1834.htm">here</a> for convenience."
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stefang's work seems to be based on <a href="http://www.itbona-machinetool.com/No-6492-Flat-clamp-model-Mini-Bulle-s/2116.htm">No. 6492</a>. <a href="http://www.itbona-machinetool.com/No-6490-Low-height-clamping-jaws-model-Bulle-s/2110.htm">No. 6490</a> also seems like a nice design, although perhaps harder to make.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-54080985102990033202014-05-15T15:12:00.000-05:002014-05-15T15:12:17.843-05:00Speed Visegdavis2265 <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=919869#post919869">posted</a> to the HSM forum about his speed vise for the drill press. It looks like a very nice design:
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"Here is a speed vise that I made - it can be used vertical / horizontal or flipped to the opposite side - it works really well, and was cheap to make.
It pivots at the end and slides fast to locate the part under the drill - the all-thread clamps tightly locking the part in place, and you only need to hold the handle with the left hand while drilling to keep it in place. I milled some steps in the jaws to act as quick parallels.
I used it on the DP for a while until I bought a 8" Heinrich vise (love that thing) and now this has been re-pourpused to bandsaw duty, as it works really well for holding / pushing / and guiding parts on the vertical bandsaw.
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<img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-M8P2SodFvsw/U3UeIDmuPtI/AAAAAAAAEqw/Wbon2BgIXqI/s800/speed_vise1.jpg>
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<img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kNJdRD8PzLE/U3UeIPFZ_YI/AAAAAAAAErU/YICUQ7shNKg/s800/speed_vise2.jpg>
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<img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-VGYlVC-VWFQ/U3UeIFkwUEI/AAAAAAAAErI/W_mOcQXzIv8/s800/speed_vise3.jpg>
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<img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jdFYnVU3iLs/U3UeI2G-FkI/AAAAAAAAEq8/-gBPXIeDTl4/s800/speed_vise4.jpg>
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Speed vise being used with circle cutting jig on vertical bandsaw.
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<img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-yRzR3Hv-e5c/U3UeJmX5aqI/AAAAAAAAErA/cqqglfcW_uw/s800/speed_vise5.jpg>
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<img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-woJECnwSCKY/U3UeK3wZNtI/AAAAAAAAErM/aHvjEbfBk0k/s800/speed_vise6.jpg>
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Just some layout I did to show the capacity of the vise."
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Something he didn't specifically point out were the notches milled into the edges of the jaws, great for holding thin plates. And the drilled and tapped holes are another thoughtful addition. Great work!
applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-88668126795875445882014-03-04T13:18:00.000-06:002014-03-07T12:27:04.044-06:00Belt Grindergdavis2265 <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=907525#post907525">posted</a> to the HSM forum about his belt grinder. It looks like a very nice design. Very configurable, but sturdy, and without a lot of extra 'fluff':
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"My 2 x 72 Belt Grinder - 3HP
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<img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-J65kq5YoVho/UxYjTU0hlWI/AAAAAAAAEBc/vholreqltiA/s800/belt_grinder_01.jpg>
<img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-chUcE9Bbjlw/UxYjTdR7WQI/AAAAAAAAEBg/LsgbA6RcULg/s800/belt_grinder_02.jpg>
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I designed it to be somewhat universal - Using a flat platten, having the big wheel out, little wheel out, etc...
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The table is a dog-bone design built with ball bearings joined with a rod. The table can move any angle at any location, as well as moved to be used in the vertical position.
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This unit has to live on my grinder bench and room is getting real tight, so I designed the unit to have a motor overhead (keeps grinding dust out of the motor) and uses a cross shaft to drive the pulley on the opposite side.
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<img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R_vVgiBKPCk/UxYjTdPL6pI/AAAAAAAAEBY/9c6CTmXcHlY/s800/belt_grinder_03.jpg>
<img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ufNyQbQviRQ/UxYjTzpSU-I/AAAAAAAAEB4/rJ8f_5wdOCg/s800/belt_grinder_04.jpg>
<img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-CRXpyYP_V3k/UxYjTydshwI/AAAAAAAAEBw/qNIyOrNsIVg/s800/belt_grinder_05.jpg>
<img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZimJFh2_xUk/UxYjUICDGmI/AAAAAAAAEB0/3qfFBrxT9B0/s800/belt_grinder_06.jpg>
<img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fsB7H_qiNE8/UxYjUm9KANI/AAAAAAAAECU/hQrIjJdmlD4/s800/belt_grinder_07.jpg>
<img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-CKuuTTb9EqA/UxYjU6uv0MI/AAAAAAAAECM/O3zKkqAMJsY/s800/belt_grinder_08.jpg>
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In response to a question about the tool rest:
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No keys, just two ball bearing joined (welded) to a round rod - ie... dogbone. I believe I used 3/8" flatbar with holes drilled for the balls to engage. These need to be thick so as not to deflect; I reef-down on that capscrew fairly tight, as the hardened chrome balls can slip. I also put a fairly large chamber on each hole to help provide more surface area for grip.
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I'll try and snap a couple detailed pics of the table.
No keys, just two ball bearing joined (welded) to a round rod - ie... dogbone. I believe I used 3/8" flatbar with holes drilled for the balls to engage. These need to be thick so as not to deflect; I reef-down on that capscrew fairly tight, as the hardened chrome balls can slip. I also put a fairly large chamber on each hole to help provide more surface area for grip. But once tightened down, it really holds very well
What's not evident from the design photos below is that the magenta colored piece that welds to the under side of the table actually has a ball welded into the hole and centered. Like I mentioned, I'll try to snap some detailed photos for ya a bit later.
I snapped a couple screen shots of my table design - hope this helps some."
<img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ofptz0QYmOo/UxYjU6mQe7I/AAAAAAAAECE/BffQa6iY7s4/s800/belt_grinder_09.jpg>
<img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-YyW63xlTz9A/UxYjVX_0UCI/AAAAAAAAECw/2pEtxEhURm4/s800/belt_grinder_10.jpg>
<img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wp9HRA3yJ3Y/UxYjVR4YG_I/AAAAAAAAECc/8RrbvPRCnSU/s800/belt_grinder_11.jpg>
<img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-RqHSq3H3zNI/UxYjV_0uSeI/AAAAAAAAECk/Ztczwa9OdMY/s800/belt_grinder_12.jpg>
<img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-y0EMoh0pOuQ/UxYjWC45sMI/AAAAAAAAECo/ozTMFGz1hhg/s800/belt_grinder_13.jpg>
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In response to a question about whether the driver and idler wheels are crowned, and asking about the speed:
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"Both are crowned - As for speed, I think I designed it to run at the recommended speed for alum oxide belts (4200 sfpm???????) - can't remember.
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I've been using it for about a year or so now and seems to work great.
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I mainly use it for general purpose fab and works great - I build maybe one to two knifes a year, so having it at the proper speed is not much an issue for me."
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"I see that I designed it for about 4800 sfpm, isn't that about the correct speed for AO? "
applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-89522782395080376322012-03-27T14:38:00.002-05:002012-03-27T15:08:36.604-05:00Finger platemariolucchini <a href="http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=13784.0">posted</a> on the HMEM forum about his beautiful finger plate and storage box:<br /><br />One of the most gratifying tasks we modelers can undertake, is the construction of our own tools....at least this is my personal way of seeing things....<br /><br />A long caressed project from way back then, was the design & building of a finger plate....I just made the decision of making one for my use....since I used one of a friend of mine, I now wonder how I did without it....<br /><br />I made a thorough search in the web, not finding much, but what little I learned I added to my personal needs....so here we go....<br /><br />I started with the base, which I produced from a discarded PC aluminium heat sink, from which I hacksawed the fins and made a long and boring flycutting sesion....<br /><br />Here it is, finally sanded and polished....the four sides are at exact 90º from each other so it can be used in my milling table and in the miniature table saw....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LMAoFvMD9jA/T3IXt0InU3I/AAAAAAAAB30/mjUy6pip4DI/s800/finger_plate01.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-clz90wO3yL4/T3IXt9wYdoI/AAAAAAAAB34/cjvEjbnTud0/s800/finger_plate02.jpg><br /><br />Notice that the upper face of the base has 3 milled "V" ways for holding different size round material...also there are 8 threaded holes which are mighty useful for holding the most used screws or bolts I mostly use in my models....these are from the smaller up....1.2 mm, 1.4 mm, 1.7 mm, 2 mm, 3 mm, 4 mm, 5 mm and 6 mm.<br /><br />The bottom face of the base....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-3A-i-cBD60c/T3IXuAcOo4I/AAAAAAAAB38/ezl7EKSt2mk/s800/finger_plate03.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hmbj1Ch48_c/T3IXuaMs5FI/AAAAAAAAB4M/qYKDHFyw6aA/s800/finger_plate04.jpg><br /><br />If you should want to use the finger plate on the vise, a screwed bar was devised which is applied via countersunk brass screws from below...<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZqV_GUVUTTM/T3IXuT1WzcI/AAAAAAAAB4U/yDifysOdYTM/s800/finger_plate05.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-jHRRLgp60ys/T3IXue6EYyI/AAAAAAAAB4Q/aqnMB23Si60/s800/finger_plate06.jpg><br /><br />The pillar, made from BMS and threaded M6, the lower threaded portion is made in such a way that you can fix it to the base with just finger pressure....I intend to make a wooden box in a time to come to keep the whole safe & sound.... so the pillar must be removable...besides I love making special wooden boxes!!!!<br /><br /><img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-FX4x2bOXiH4/T3IXuyr2V9I/AAAAAAAAB5I/BRU4bXYE6uU/s800/finger_plate07.jpg><br /><br />The pillar in place on the base...................<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4aWYuI1WSHI/T3IXvEUDb3I/AAAAAAAAB4g/6breLSf_MuE/s800/finger_plate08.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-RNuaBytSrDM/T3IXvE8L3AI/AAAAAAAAB4s/K6sEZ_IEo3A/s800/finger_plate09.jpg><br /><br />The clamp, made from 4 mm thick brass.......the lower ends are slightly angled so they can rest parallel to the base when in use....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v7ej_wnUJCg/T3IXvvPMLzI/AAAAAAAAB44/e1Cf9OudiJ0/s800/finger_plate10.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8NgcGCz4L0o/T3IXv83o3mI/AAAAAAAAB40/0bwq6rwMxbw/s800/finger_plate11.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ENxJDAZjB3U/T3IXwfG5itI/AAAAAAAAB5M/jI2t3PWAka8/s800/finger_plate12.jpg><br /><br />The clamping knob & the special washer.............<br /><br /><img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-VnT7QiHsqfg/T3IXwbLzHgI/AAAAAAAAB5Q/1MaQB4IsBY8/s800/finger_plate13.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-LwkWWOrCvMg/T3IXwr4w11I/AAAAAAAAB5c/dlGVVEehiDI/s800/finger_plate14.jpg><br /><br />The special washer that goes under the clamping knob, is rounded on the undernath so that it gives good grabbing power at any angle......<br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-VSUNnLmfaLo/T3IXwl4sN0I/AAAAAAAAB5o/GFzbX13OJWM/s800/finger_plate15.jpg><br /><br />The adjuster screw...........Made from an M 4 bolt, with a heavily knurled brass knob, has the added finesse of using an acrylic point so as not to marr the plate's surface when tightening it..........<br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RAgO-6069A8/T3IXwm0wsXI/AAAAAAAAB5g/BImWopTF_m0/s800/finger_plate16.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-WS11S8NzdVg/T3IXw05hF4I/AAAAAAAAB5w/Z8Pf066sz7M/s800/finger_plate17.jpg><br /><br />Here's an image of the threaded holes being occupied with an example of each bolt of different dimensions....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-ia-0Vy0p3ko/T3IXxN7WlBI/AAAAAAAAB54/bh7L_tGefCE/s800/finger_plate18.jpg><br /><br />The parts of the ensemble, including a special screwdriver to screw in the special base for using it in the vise....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-1_d9TQDsl-Q/T3IXxfBaOFI/AAAAAAAAB6Q/hxm8oulF-7s/s800/finger_plate19.jpg><br /><br />The finger plate assembled showing some of its infinite uses.....<br /><br />A brass bar in one of the "V" ways, ready to be crossdrilled....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-qLEU5UnRXIM/T3IXxaUjmcI/AAAAAAAAB6M/ACRaKsXqpb0/s800/finger_plate20.jpg><br /><br />The same brass bar in one of the corner "V" ways, ready to be filed or rectified via a grinder....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8KMg8QxwklA/T3IXxnfpRDI/AAAAAAAAB6I/GGPIobsfm6Y/s800/finger_plate21.jpg><br /><br />A small hinge to be filed......the clamping action of the finger plate is really powerful, when it bites.....well........<br /><br /><img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-hovtu8GRsEY/T3IXx6qyYgI/AAAAAAAAB6k/t1K2wtysvDg/s800/finger_plate22.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Tm_Ff-kyWF4/T3IXxw-XKMI/AAAAAAAAB6g/A-SlVl2B_gg/s800/finger_plate23.jpg><br /><br />The finished box with all its inlettings.....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-aKJvzpl-aX4/T3IXx2zQ5SI/AAAAAAAAB6c/7An1HidXir0/s800/finger_plate24.jpg><br /><br />The box with its contents....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-ZVBg2zaPPPQ/T3IXyRqO07I/AAAAAAAAB7A/EU6u-c_nfrI/s800/finger_plate25.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XBrdpBZwAGI/T3IXyRqG-WI/AAAAAAAAB64/PHdjX8P8BT8/s800/finger_plate26.jpg><br /><br />The closed box.............by the way, the box was made entirely in 3 mm thick plywood....<br /><br /><img src=https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-blZNVFEUxBQ/T3IXydFIScI/AAAAAAAAB68/dG-_Xe4XMJY/s800/finger_plate27.jpg><br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-l63TGgDK_Q8/T3IXyvQhrpI/AAAAAAAAB7E/M88Ts9SB8vg/s800/finger_plate28.jpg><br /><br />Another homemade tool for the collection............applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-49250058505215083032012-03-19T11:10:00.002-05:002012-03-19T11:17:06.512-05:00Shop tooling organizerGary Paine <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=51079">posted</a> on the Home Shop Machinist forum about some nice storage boxes he made:<br /><br />Often I turn to woodworking to supplement my metalworking activity. Usually this turns into some form of organizer for the tooling and cutters. Such is the case with the accessories box that resides beside my Burke horizontal mill. The milling cutters are sharp and fragile, and I needed a way to quickly find the right one without handling a whole pile of them. The tills fitted in on top make it a bit less than instant to get at one of the cutters on the bottom, but they are individually and safely wrapped in protective wood on the bottom layer.<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zIgOQHtUNA8/T2daX8hzxsI/AAAAAAAAB3U/DAPMs-1LQQg/s800/Dividers1.jpg><br /><br />In a drawer of the custom cabinet that lives under the legs of my Delta Milwaukee Toolmaker Grinder are partitions for the fragile grinding wheels that are used on the machine. <br /><br /><img src=https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-cZ965j9K2Ww/T2daX2syeCI/AAAAAAAAB3M/LMXgNJwail8/s800/Dividers2.jpg><br /><br />Different diameter wheels needed different dividers, or it would have been less convenient to get out the small wheels from the large dividers.<br /><br /><img src=https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Rgid0APfspM/T2daX_IfuFI/AAAAAAAAB3Q/_tqPq3HUO0s/s800/Dividers3.jpg><br /><br />The purpose of this post is to try to give something back to this great group by sharing the construction method for the dividers. Many times this turns out to be just two dowels, two end plates, and a bunch of leaves or dividers. I size the dividers between 60 and 80 percent of the cutter diameter in height and about ½ inch or so wider. I space the dowels so they are just clear of a tangent to the diameter, trying to be at least 1/2 in. from side and bottom of the leaf. The dowels are fitted into the end plates at least 1/8 inch from the bottom more than the dimension on the divider so they slide freely. The hole in the end plates for the dowel is not drilled through, but only about ¾ of the way. That way, the dowels act to hold the end plates up against their support. No glue is needed. The holes in the dividers are a generous clearance for the dowel. A side plate such as I show in the photo can be added if desired for full protection of the cutter or ease in handling the assembly. Tip: drill the dividers first as a clamped together stack, top leaf in the stack marked LEFT. Take that leaf and lay it in finished place on the right end plate with the LEFT mark up and transfer the holes into the end plate. Then lay it on the left end plate with the mark against the end and transfer the holes. Doing it this way cancels layout or drilling errors and assures all the holes line up sweetly and it all sits flat. The dividers can be anything from 1/8 inch thick up, and cardboard works but I fear it will absorb moisture from the air and go limp in time. Hope you like the idea.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-34822107737681532272010-11-19T15:33:00.002-06:002010-11-19T15:36:46.050-06:00Lathe Spindle Stopdarryl <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showpost.php?p=610908&postcount=896">posted</a> on the HSM forum about a spindle stop he made. I particularly liked the pin wrench for adjusting it:<br /><br />A few pics of this simple project. The morse tapered stop piece with threaded adjustment bar, and the wrench to adjust it-<br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TObqJYBF72I/AAAAAAAABow/1qCmPbxRPrg/s800/stopandadjustingwrench.jpg" /><br /><br />Inserted into the spindle taper-<br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TObqJj_VDaI/AAAAAAAABo0/356WJVUSI9w/s800/stopinsertedintospindle2.jpg" /><br /><br />With chuck in place- here it's set to give about 1/2 inch of material in the jaws behind the face of the jaws.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TObqJ8dHGUI/AAAAAAAABo4/Pt1uEnTcnHo/s800/adjustableendofstop.jpg" /><br /><br />The diameter of the face on the adjusting bolt is just under 1/2 inch. There will be another adjusting bolt made if I need it to be a smaller diameter. The bolt is a friction fit, which I got by choosing a galvanized bolt over a chromed one. I polished up the bolt so it wouldn't chew up the threads in the pvc piece, and gave it a bit of grease. This was a carriage bolt, chosen to give enough of a head that I could machine it to give me a decent sized flat on the end. I also machined away the squared portion directly behind the head, reducing that diameter to 5/16 for this 3/8 bolt. That way I can screw it right in til it touches the plastic. It goes about as deep as I'll ever need it to, but if I do need it to be deeper, I can just cut off some of the plastic. The threads go in a bit over an inch, and the bore is drilled out from the other end to 3/8. No need to thread it all the way.<br /><br />I could have simplified this and just used a normal bolt, but I wanted to be able to grip material down to about a half inch. This would have meant turning off the hex on the bolt head, leaving no way to adjust it. Otherwise I could simply have used a socket wrench. An alternative would have been to re-grind a hex head for a smaller socket, but I chose the pin wrench instead. If I need to use a smaller diameter adjusting bolt, I'll be forced to grind a hex onto it so I can adjust it. No way I'm going to cheap out and put a simple slot on the end of it. I hate those slippery flat blade screwdrivers.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-62100173476532939572010-11-19T15:15:00.005-06:002010-11-19T15:31:10.076-06:00Simple hold downZinom <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showpost.php?p=609264&postcount=879">posted</a> on the HSM forum about a simple hold down clamp he made:<br /><br />Hey all, I often need to drill a hole in some thin stock that doesn't require a lot of precision so I don't like to spend much time on the set up.<br /><br />*disclaimer* I use a small screwless vise almost exclusively so this may not be too useful to those with vises without vee grooves.<br /><br />Threaded rod, scrap strap and a couple of set screws that fit in the vee groove to prevent the clamp from pulling upward.<br /><br />Not a complex thing but for me it speeds up some operations and I hadn't seen anything similar in all the web surfing I've done.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TObqI4Gs1aI/AAAAAAAABoo/W9i18Fcb2GY/s800/DSC08381.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TObqJXNpQnI/AAAAAAAABos/aZFiWobjB_A/s800/DSC08384.jpg" /><br /><br /><hr /><br /><br />This looked like a pretty handy thing to have. I think for a vise with V slot across it you could also use a rod for the bottom piece, and you wouldn't have to bother with the set screws. Also, a brass tip on the end of the thumbscrew would keep you from messing up the top of the vise.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-14874708029026791732010-08-13T09:23:00.001-05:002010-08-13T09:25:19.598-05:00Draw bar hammerhornluv <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showpost.php?p=579293&postcount=843">posted</a> this draw bar hammer on the HSM forum. I thought it looked like a neat thing to make:<br /><br />Here is a draw bar hammer I made. I used a 3/4" deep socket as the base of it. I machined a square on the brass insert and pressed it into the square on the socket. I then made a steel insert to take up all the empty space in the middle of the socket so I would have something to tap into. Drilled and tapped to 1/2-20 (The socket was hard-ish, but softer than I expected). Turned and knurled an Aluminum handle to fit and voila! Now I can loosen and tap in one fell swoop. Soon the world will be mine, mwahahaha!<br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TGVVQtfWbwI/AAAAAAAABkU/Vp51GOZlIuQ/s800/draw_bar_hammer.jpg">applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-23136037013619379302010-08-05T12:00:00.007-05:002010-08-05T12:21:43.235-05:00Digital MicroscopeOn the Home Shop Machinist forum, Evan <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=39081">posted</a> a nifty microscope he made from a camera lens and a webcam:<br /><br />Yep, Macro Scope, using ordinary camera lenses in macro mode. I have been taking micrographs by snapping pictures with a digital camera held to the eyepiece of my stereo microscope but isn't easy to achieve good focus and contrast. I decided to build something more suited to the job and easier to use.<br /><br />It uses a generic 1.3 megapixel web cam. Various camera parts were used as well as a variety of raw materials. The base is flycut recycled HDPE that looks like black granite, the main column is a solid bar of extra hard mystery stainless steel that was .030 out of round to start. Gave a bit of pucker factor when I needed to drill and tap two 4-40 holes in it. The rack and pinon are machined from brass as are the supports for the twin lens adjustment rails. The elevating housing is made from acetal bar stock and the lens height/fine focuser screw is aluminum. It took a week of on/off time to make.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TFru6Iu0IyI/AAAAAAAABjw/1-nM5okSdfM/s800/mscope1.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TFru6P7tSqI/AAAAAAAABj0/5ASLwBAvs20/s800/mscope2.jpg" /><br /><br />It can be dissassembled into 4 main components without tools in a few seconds. Different lenses may be attached via M 42 pentax screw mount or adapters. Long lenses (telephoto) work best because they give more distance to the subject for a given magnification and back focus distance.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TFru6b_Y_eI/AAAAAAAABj4/5l98lt4xAtA/s800/mscope3.jpg" /><br /><br /><br />Some sample images:<br /><br />1: The edge of a broad radiused HSS cutter that I thought looked pretty good. That's why I built this device.<br /><br />2: The point of a carbide graver that I hand sharpened on a diamond wheel. This is one of my best gravers for brass and it's because the flats are very symmetical.<br /><br />3: An insert that looks ok to the eye but suddenly started cutting poorly.<br /><br />4: The same type insert new. Note that the edge isn't very sharp.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/TFru6WJVVgI/AAAAAAAABj8/KVDN5DGJgDA/s800/mscope4.jpg" /><br /><br />To Do list includes an X-Y stage, measuring software overlays and an inserted illuminated back light in the base.<br /><br /><hr /><br /><br />Evan later <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=42579">posted</a> about a modification he made to it, replacing the webcam with an NTSC camera, and mounting a cheap LCD display on it.<br /><br />I think that one of the inexpensive import granite comparator stands that Enco usually has on sale would work really well to base this on, if the size was right. You'd already have a solid base, and nice column, and fine adjustment mechanism. I think you could probably do a lot of things that you might use an optical comparator for with one of these, at least for simple HSM stuff. It would be easy to overlay a drawing of a gear tooth cutter on an image from this, and see how it compares.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-76113952789420150312009-08-11T13:02:00.008-05:002010-03-10T10:43:00.671-06:00Crossdrilling block for latheblack85vette <a href="http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5701.0">posted</a> on the HMEM board about his build of a crossdrilling block for the lathe:<br /><br />Saw it in this post:<br /><br /><a href="http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5361.msg57395#msg57395">http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=5361.msg57395#msg57395</a><br /><br />Thought it was such a cool but simple tool that I just had to have one. So here is mine. Used some 2" square aluminum stock and then faced it on the lathe on 3 sides (left the other 3 alone). Mounted it on the compound in place of the tool post and made a groove in it with a 90 degree drill mill. Nice thing is that it is centered on the spindle without any effort. Then drilled 4 holes to use to clamp the round stock in the jig. I went with bolts rather than studs so I can work closer to the collet. So there it is; dirt simple but very useful.<br /><br />Full credit to Foozer for the great idea.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SoG4rXzNMhI/AAAAAAAABUU/LPj-yG9gq3Y/s800/drill_block1.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SoG4robokoI/AAAAAAAABUY/UZoXBupQsiI/s800/drill_block2.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SoG4rqAzveI/AAAAAAAABUc/Lxd26ZlZZvQ/s800/drill_block3.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SoG4riazN1I/AAAAAAAABUg/wgKQQqQ8-NM/s800/drill_block4.jpg" /><br /><br /><br /><HR><br /><br />In one of the posts, the following YouTube video was posted:<br /><object width="660" height="525"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/GRcGfni70CI&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/GRcGfni70CI&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="660" height="525"></embed></object>applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-26256489679475443422009-02-10T16:55:00.003-06:002009-02-10T17:00:12.674-06:00Frank Ford <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=33185">posted</a> on the Home Shop Machinist forum about his simple radius dresser:<br /><br />Coincidentally, I just this week made a radius dresser for my tiny Sanford surface grinder. I just used materials I had on hand, and didn't make drawings. I'm at work now, but I'll post a photo or two here when I get home tonight.<br /><br />Update, tonight -<br /><br />Here it is "in situ," on the mag chuck:<br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SZIF1QLD0BI/AAAAAAAABD4/ACQ51ynOEsQ/s800/radiusdresser01.jpg" /><br /><br />I had this welded angle with a big hex nut stuck on, and I used it as the basic support. Just another item from the salvage bin. I bored the nut and angle to 1.125" to insert a couple of standard ball bearings that could accommodate a half inch shaft.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SZIF1qUW3pI/AAAAAAAABEQ/G53IprdFiXQ/s800/radiusdresser04.jpg" /><br /><br />The "arm" of the dresser started out as a piece of heavy hot-rolled angle.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SZIF1ataF_I/AAAAAAAABEA/QdNv3y6-RiI/s800/radiusdresser02.jpg" /><br /><br />I turned and knurled the entire shaft from a piece of 1.5" 12L14 steel I had in the bin, and made a little flat spot to be able to lock it in place at exactly vertical so I could use the rig as a standard flat dresser as well as swinging it for radius forms. I did the graduations mostly because I could, and I can always use the practice, dontcha know.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SZIF1SkFkwI/AAAAAAAABEI/YNTl_c_ZZdE/s800/radiusdresser03.jpg" /><br /><br />Once I was finished, I spent some time with a height gauge and measured the center height accurately. As you can see, I wasn't so concerned with neatness as when I stamped the graduations on the knob. Oh, well, I never really expected to photograph this one. . .applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-59448272962683771652008-11-03T12:17:00.001-06:002009-02-02T12:33:30.331-06:00Shop suppliesJust a list of things that I've seen that I think would be handy to have in the shop.<br /><br />Cam action drill press vise<br />squirt bottle for lubricant for hole drilling<br />table covers that fit around the vise on the mill and keep swarf out of the t-slotapplescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-71569330838927709872008-10-30T13:40:00.003-05:002009-02-02T12:35:49.000-06:00Transfer screwsI've seen transfer screw made from bolts and such, but I came across a reference to Heimann transfer screws and I think they're neat.<br /><br />The transfer screws have a small hex at the base of the point.<br /><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SQn_WsKwzpI/AAAAAAAAAy0/h7ol1w7s5ik/s800/Hiemann_transfer_screw1.jpg" /><br /><br />The screws nest together inside the wrench/holder. Note that there must be a hole in the back of the transfer screws for the point of the one behind it to slide into it. The end of the wrench has a hex broached into to it. The top cap screws off.<br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SQn_Wm6NlGI/AAAAAAAAAy8/i7BNJXbhx8k/s800/Hiemann_transfer_screw2.jpg" /><br /><br />The size of the transfer screws is stamped into the wrench/holder.<br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_YKbtkM-kVi4/SQn_WlcC37I/AAAAAAAAAzE/imYPXZP9LSk/s800/Hiemann_transfer_screw3.jpg" /><br /><br />I'm not sure if this last one is shopmade or not. But, it almost looks like the end is a socket head cap screw. Would probably be easier to attach one of those to the end for the hex socket than to broach the hex in the end of the holder.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-59753184301923399792008-10-24T16:02:00.002-05:002008-10-24T16:11:11.537-05:00Dust collectorMy surface grinder makes a lot of dust. If I want it to coexist nicely with the rest of my machines, a dust collector is a must. Holescreek <a href="http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/showthread.php?t=81863">posted</a> some photos and a description of his on Practical Machinist:<br /><br />Several members of this board (myself included) have posed questions as to what everyone else uses for grinding dust control in their home shop. I read the few threads in the archives on both boards and ended up with more questions than answers. Most of the web sites I googled cater to wood dust.<br /><br />In my little home shop I have one surface grinder, a couple of snag grinders, and a small belt sander that I use only for metal. The surface grinder was my primary concern so I based all of my requirements for dust collection on it. I watched industrial Torit type units on Ebay for several months hoping that I could snag one close enough to home to pick up myself and save freight. Not having a forklift to unload a semi is one drawback, then having to either buy yet another VFD or change a motor out was another.<br /><br />I refined my list of requirements to fit my wants: single phase, fine filtration, mobile, quiet, safe (from fires) and CHEAP. My wants pretty much decimated the majority of dust collectors available on the net. A friend gave me an old furnace blower so I started prototyping a dust collector around it. I figured that I'd just start trying stuff. I pulled the covers off of a Torit #64 at work to see what they did. To make a long story short, the furnace fan wasn't feasible (but it was quiet) without using a 10" duct. I was about ready to give up when I found a damaged 650CFM HF dust collector on Ebay for $30. I wasn't going to use the broken part anyway, and it was about an hour drive each way to get it. The noise that it made measured out at 95dB sitting on the floor. Putting it in the box I had left from my furnace blower attempt dropped it to 85dB and adding the insulated exhaust stack took it down to a manageable 75dB. Since this is a prototype I figure that I'll remake it out of steel on a smaller scale to fit the HF impeller later on. I used MDF for the current case. I know it can burn, but I often use MDF for impromptu welding jigs and seldom do I ever get a flame from stick welding directly against it. I've got around $50 in everything so far, and the suction is very strong. The 5 filter bags were picked up at a local flea market. I found them in the McMaster catalog as polyester filter bags rated at 25 gallons/min. I think the catalog had the mesh size at around 2-3 micron. I held a piece of filter over a butane flame and it melted but would not catch fire. I added the close weave furnace filter on top for good measure, and the whole tray slides out for maintenance. I’m sure there’s a few things I can come up with to improve on it, from what I’ve read, I could use a lot more surface area on the filter bags. I’m open to suggestions from the group.<br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SQI40Hsi-1I/AAAAAAAAAx0/wjOuPC7C7eI/s800/dustcollector1.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SQI40OjDcVI/AAAAAAAAAx8/9nHM5va4jBM/s800/dustcollector2.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SQI40EwY9WI/AAAAAAAAAyE/1OBNj62mNDo/s800/dustcollector3.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SQI40UNpvlI/AAAAAAAAAyM/wGrchgrfxGs/s800/dustcollectorstack.jpg" /><br /><br /><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SQI40rt1-XI/AAAAAAAAAyU/KhKejRqTZKU/s800/chute062005.jpg" /><br /><br /><HR><br /><br />Matt Isserstedt had the following to add:<br /><br />Wondering if a large 90 degree square "elbow" on the exhaust stack would further reduce the noise level.<br /><br />The egg-crate/waffle foam is a wonderful idea, however noise that radiates "straight up" can still escape...if there were another foam surface directly above that might absorb some more. Might be able to accomplish the same thing with a "cone hat" type of cap lined with the foam and then exhaust air escapes 360 degrees around. Thinking somewhat like the drip cap on a fireplace's chimney.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-81895845018003404182008-06-02T16:40:00.002-05:002008-06-02T16:44:41.357-05:00Dressing tool holderMcgvyer <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=21809">posted</a> on the HSM forum about his tool to hold a dressing tool on the grinder:<br /><br />the known uses, to me anyway, for taper threads went up 50% with this project. Buffing wheel arbors, pipe threads and my tapered thread collect contraption!<br /><br />been sharpening a lot of end mills lately and have been frustrated at the frequent dressing required AND having to take the end mill out of the holder and mount the wheel dresser.<br /><br />I wanted a quick, no wrenches way to mount the dresser without altering the set up.<br /><br />Base plate gets bolted to the table with a short stub, not too many turns to thread the column on. at first the column had a T bolt but it was tough on the table, scratching it each time it was taken on and off because there is inevitably grit between the two. The column screws onto the base plate, knurled ring fits the key way and used to tighten, then drops out of the way. that idea works OK, handy but probably not worth the extra effort, larger OD with knurling near the base would have sufficed<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207403000478366322"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERpcF3Q-nI/AAAAAAAAAuI/q3qntsAFSas/s800/01_baseandcolumn.jpg" /></a><br /><br />the head that holds the dresser has a taper cut thread and is bored and slit like a collet. tighten up the collar and it looks into place. pretty simple, but works well.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207403004773333634"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERpcV3Q-oI/AAAAAAAAAuQ/LOwENXAx2lg/s800/02_collethead.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207403004773333650"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERpcV3Q-pI/AAAAAAAAAuY/A_NeiCBCCU8/s800/03_assembly.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The threaded part, the head I'll call gets clamped via the collet action on the column. Aside from the easy on/off the collet gives, it lets you quickly install it at whatever height you want and pointing in any direction, you just put it at what ever height/direction you want and tighten the ring. feed and doc of the diamond is via the table's control x/y. here's a shot with a little more perspective, you can see the air spindle to the right.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207403009068300962"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERpcl3Q-qI/AAAAAAAAAug/oNMBTJhQ850/s800/04_perspective.jpg" /></a>applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-52410155458625585152008-06-02T16:37:00.002-05:002008-06-02T16:40:05.855-05:00Clamp for bandsawMcgyver <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=14053">posted</a> on the HSM forum his nifty little clamp for holding small pieces in his saw:<br /><br />I was doing some work today and shot some pictures of an device I made years ago that is so simple, I almost can't call it a device. If you divided usefulness by ease of construction, it's got a huge payback.<br /><br />The problem is 1) horizontal bandsaws can have the jaws pushed out of square if the clamping force is all on one side and 2) short piece are difficult to hold properly in the bandsaw vice.<br /><br />All this is is a piece of crs with some holes tapped to fit my strap clamp bolts and a stop to align the work against. One shot is taking a 5/8" disk of a very short piece of 2.625 stock, the other is saving a bunch of hack sawing using the device in vertical position cutting a piece of 1/2" CR at an angle (its barely visible but I did mill a flat so the blade would start properly). Both of these jobs are a real pita without such a device.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207401961096280642"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERofl3Q-kI/AAAAAAAAAtw/NDCq-pMp2aU/s800/01_0966a154.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207401961096280658"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERofl3Q-lI/AAAAAAAAAt4/5RUB7OboWvA/s800/02_b39fa2f5.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207401965391247970"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERof13Q-mI/AAAAAAAAAuA/gSMJFNxIKRM/s800/03_44481142.jpg" /></a>applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-36522317594340437062008-06-02T16:27:00.003-05:002008-06-02T16:34:28.293-05:00Sheet Metal TankMcgyver <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=13891">posted</a> on the HSM forum about building a tank for a hit and miss engine:<br /><br />Needed to make a brass gas tank for my hit & miss engine and thought you guys might like some pictures. Experts might find the photo's superfluous, but I tried to take enough that it's a bit of a how-to post for someone newer<br /><br />Lazy mans way of laying out the sheet - propped up against an angle plate, the height gauge makes quick work of the layout. Brass is .028 thou.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392739801495890"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgG13Q-VI/AAAAAAAAAr0/eJXrocvyCB8/s800/01_Gastank1layingout.jpg" /></a><br /><br />A lot of the corner material can be cut with good shears, but as the corners will have tabs, you need to get into them with a fret saw. Here's the simple set up for this job<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392739801495906"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgG13Q-WI/AAAAAAAAAr8/_0QIy8MEvwk/s800/02_Gastank2sawandboard.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Cutting out the corner with a fret saw<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392744096463218"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgHF3Q-XI/AAAAAAAAAsE/sp9ZPONUQC8/s800/03_Gastank3cuttingoutcorners.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The sheet is now ready for folding. Corners all cleaned out and any required touchups done with a file<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392744096463234"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgHF3Q-YI/AAAAAAAAAsM/FXwDkTZ6Q94/s800/04_Gastank4readyforfolding.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Here the sheet metal is held in a home made set of folding bars - just crs, some dowel pins and cap screws.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392748391430546"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgHV3Q-ZI/AAAAAAAAAsU/JKWgvVFqdZE/s800/05_Gastank5Homemadefoldingbars.jpg" /></a><br /><br />In the midst of the first fold - I held the bars vertically as the wasn't enough throat distance in the vice to hold horizontally - a more convenient position. Note that the tabs are not folded over at this setting of the bars<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392860060580258"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgN13Q-aI/AAAAAAAAAsc/09XAB6SUGU4/s800/06_Gastank6firstfold.jpg" /></a><br /><br />This is the right tool for folding the metal over so as to not mare the surface; a leather mallet<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392864355547570"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgOF3Q-bI/AAAAAAAAAsk/AfkvDouSILQ/s800/07_Gastank6amallet.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Here is a tab that has just been folded. Note how the bars have been moved so that there is about a 1/32 gap between the bar and the side - this will allow the tab to fold up inside the of the side<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392864355547586"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgOF3Q-cI/AAAAAAAAAss/bFqPmRS8sKE/s800/08_Gastank7foldingtabs.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Here the work piece is ready to have the ends folded.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392868650514898"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgOV3Q-dI/AAAAAAAAAs0/sywMHBt0Zl8/s800/09_Gastank8readyforends.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Hunt through the scrap box for a chunk of metal to fold against and that will fit in side of the box. Here the end is being folded. Note how the tabs tuck neatly inside of the box.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392868650514914"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgOV3Q-eI/AAAAAAAAAs8/JS8ENLmt95I/s800/10_Gastank9afoldingends.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The narrow lip on the bottom piece is folding using the folding bars<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392963139795442"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgT13Q-fI/AAAAAAAAAtE/Cv8cm3gRKiA/s800/11_Gastank10foldingbottom.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Here's the competed sheet metal work, ready for soldering<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392963139795458"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgT13Q-gI/AAAAAAAAAtM/slCS6TDJDKQ/s800/12_Gastank11readyforsolderafterholes.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Simple solder set up, weight & refractory bricks. Wet paper towel was used as a heat sink around completed joints. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392963139795474"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgT13Q-hI/AAAAAAAAAtU/A2y3fKJ0GfE/s800/13_Gastank12simplesoftsoldersetup.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Here a some shots of the competed tank. I had wanted to include shots of bending the pipes and shots of them set up for soldering, but I managed to destroy my camera (arrrg). Bought a new one for these final shots. The pipes were soldering using my 3rd hand design http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net//Fo...ML/012958.html<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392963139795490"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgT13Q-iI/AAAAAAAAAtc/7v1vLclMzP4/s800/14_Gastank13alldone.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207392967434762802"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERgUF3Q-jI/AAAAAAAAAtk/qCn0qEGtBP0/s800/15_Gastank14alldone.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Hope its of some value to youapplescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-56975024355352167022008-06-02T15:41:00.004-05:002008-06-02T16:00:31.530-05:00Grinding wheel balancerMcgyver <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=12741">posted</a> on the HSM forum about repairing a grinding wheel balancer, and included a link to an article on how to build one:<br /><br />I recently came into possession of a grinding wheel balancer, and having fun with the digital camera, recorded the exploits. Prior to, I didn't know much about balancing grinding wheels so thought that maybe posting on it would help some people. The basics i learned via Jan Rowland's article at<br /><a href="http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep04/sep04.html">http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep04/sep04.html</a><br /><br />some good info there on making your own.<br /><br />It may or may not help on a bench grinder but on the T&C cutter grinder or surface grinder it can make a real difference.<br /><br />Here's a nice balancer that came my way. I was surprised to find its metric, $38 for metric die to make a new foot that was hopelessly bent.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207387950912960578"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERbwF3Q-EI/AAAAAAAAAps/uP7XRNpEe5Y/s800/01_wheelbalancewithnewfoot.jpg" /></a><br /><br />I barely had enough room to start a tap with making extensions and once started had to use a wrench. The pillar tool is used to make this awkward start straight.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207387968092829778"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERbxF3Q-FI/AAAAAAAAAp0/6D2i_Zw-ZhE/s800/02_tappingwheelarbor-justenoughtogetit.jpg" /></a><br /><br />here's the finished arbor. I must have had a hole go slightly off or some thing as the plate shown need a tiny bit of balancing itself.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207387968092829794"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERbxF3Q-GI/AAAAAAAAAp8/nPbHaCnkjUo/s800/03_completedwheelbalancingarbor.jpg" /></a><br /><br />next it's the balancing weights. I made them from two thicknesses, .025 and .031. I wanted a very accurate fit on the arbor so that error wouldn't induced between disassembling on the arbor and installation on the grinding spindle. The four sheet metal pieces are sandwiched between a couple of metal plates<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207387972387797106"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERbxV3Q-HI/AAAAAAAAAqE/wsSoohIU9zc/s800/04_boringsheetmetalweightssandwichedbe.jpg" /></a><br /><br />After boring, I laid out, sheared and then filed to shape the weights. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207387972387797122"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERbxV3Q-II/AAAAAAAAAqM/Gij030dmX9A/s800/05_weightsreadyforshear.jpg" /></a><br /><br />here are the finished weights, identified by number. The number will help get it right when its reassembled on the spindle. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207388062582110354"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERb2l3Q-JI/AAAAAAAAAqU/-PVssXSg8Ls/s800/06_finishedandnumberedbalanceweights.jpg" /></a><br /><br />the balancer's got a small internal level. I checked and adjusted this with a precision level, will probably do this each time, the internal level is not super sensitive.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207388062582110370"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERb2l3Q-KI/AAAAAAAAAqc/MLDwHKqSisY/s800/07_checkingandadjustingbalancersintern.jpg" /></a><br /><br />here's a final shot of it in use. The location of each weight is marked on the blotter and then its reassembled on the grinding spindle. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207388062582110386"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERb2l3Q-LI/AAAAAAAAAqk/cqABLl0uOdc/s800/08_balancerinuse.jpg" /></a><br /><br />The wheel shown, a 'triumph' which I think is KBC's house brand and was in terrible balance, causing noticeable vibration in the machine and on the cut. After balancing, it runs as smoothly as the spindle does empty!<br /><br /><HR><br /><br />Here's the <a href="http://www.homemetalshopclub.org/news/sep04/sep04.html">article</a> that Mcgyver linked to (actually written by Dick Kostelnicek):<br /><br />Static Balancing of Grinding Wheels<br />by Dick Kostelnicek - HMSC Member<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207389986727459010"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdml3Q-MI/AAAAAAAAAqs/Uk7T76dz8xk/s800/09_bal_3.jpg" /></a><br /><br />What you Need<br /><br />A 9 x 12 in. surface plate.<br />A set of 1/4-in. thick parallel pairs.<br />A precision level.<br />Two 6 in lengths of undamaged 1/4 in. drill rod.<br />Super glue and masking tape.<br />A mandrel or arbor that fits your wheel.<br />Time and patience<br /><br />You can statically balance vitrified grinding wheels for both your surface and pedestal grinders with a few common shop tools. Don't worry about dynamic balancing. These wheels don't need it since they are large in diameter compared to the axial thickness and they don't change shape when turning at rated speed. First, build two arbor supports from pieces of ground parallels, as shown in the photo below. I place a very small drop of super glue on each end of a parallel as I stack them on top of one another. Later, you can disassemble them by breaking the glue bond and cleaning the residue with acetone, an excellent solvent for cyanoacrylate glue. Use masking tape (colored blue in the photo} to secure the drill rod to the top of each stack. The round drill rods prevent the sharpness of the edges on the parallels from interfering with the free wheeling of the wheel arbor. Also, debris will be easily squeezed out from under the arbor while rolling on a round rather than a flat surface. Make sure the surface plate is perfectly level in both directions. My plate is supported in a metal frame that has three adjustable screw feet, making it easy to level.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207389986727459026"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdml3Q-NI/AAAAAAAAAq0/vuJ_w_lq4To/s800/10_bal_1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Surface Grinding Wheels First, dress the wheel while mounted on the machine for which it is to be used. This will guarantee that it is round, a necessary step for new, inexpensive, or damaged wheels. Then, mount it on a dummy tapered arbor (see photo below). For balancers, I use a pair of thin spring shims. They are made from 1/8-in. aliminum sheet, split at the bottom of the large hole, and clamp over the wheel hub.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207389986727459042"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdml3Q-OI/AAAAAAAAAq8/rtQRFau1llI/s800/11_bal_2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Now, place the wheel arbor on the two supports and allow it to settle to its heavy point (without shims). Mark the high spot of the wheel, calling it the light side mark or LSM, on the edge of the round paper blotter. Then, mount the two shims with their projections perpendicular to the LSM as seen in the photo below.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207389991022426354"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdm13Q-PI/AAAAAAAAArE/wB6jRzfcY2A/s800/12_bal_4.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Rotate both shims in opposite directions a few degrees toward the LSM. Roll the wheel so that the LSM is parallel to the surface plate, and let it settle to its heavy side, photo below.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207389991022426370"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdm13Q-QI/AAAAAAAAArM/gZJOYoU5MIU/s800/13_bal_5.jpg" /></a><br /><br />If the LSM is still on top, move both shims closer to the LSM until the wheel will not rotate when the LSM is turned parallel to the surface plate. Some times you may not rotate both shims by the exact same amount in opposite directions. Then the LSM may not be at the top or bottom after the wheel settles. In that case, move just one of the shims to reset the LSM vertical. This will take some practice, as you will always choose the wrong shim to move or move it in the wrong direction. When the wheel stops rotating at an arbitrary point, well almost any point because you have to stop when it is good enough, then you are done, as seen in the photo below.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207390064036870418"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdrF3Q-RI/AAAAAAAAArU/zRM7p10cNL4/s800/14_bal_6.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Pedestal Grinding wheels The photo below shows an 8-in. pedestal grinding wheel to be balanced. I use a lathe mandrel having a very slight tapered, but that is of no consequence here, to support the wheel and its metal wheel flanges during balancing. I've lightened up one side of each flange by drilling a few holes near the edge. Now the side without holes is the heavy side of the flange and plays the same role as the weighty projection of the clamp-on flanges discussed above in reference to surface grinding wheels. Here, however, you must place one flange on each side of the wheel. Just as discussed above, start without flanges to determine and mark the light side or LSM of the wheel. Place the flanges against opposite sides of the wheel so that the lightening holes are along a line parallel to the surface plate and facing toward opposite sides of the wheel. Now proceed to counter rotate both flanges so the lightening holes move away and downward from the LSM. Stop when the wheel settles at an arbitrary point.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207390068331837730"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdrV3Q-SI/AAAAAAAAArc/LjwfSQCC8PU/s800/15_bal_7.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Witness mark the flange against the LSM on each side of the wheel as seen in the photo below. Finally mount the wheel and its flanges on the machine's arbor and spin it up to speed for a test run. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207390068331837746"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdrV3Q-TI/AAAAAAAAArk/fu8sTnXWm_c/s800/16_bal_8.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Now, as will often happen, the wheel flanges will not be snug on the dummy arbor during balancing. They may try to always settle to their heavy side while you are rotating the wheel. You may not notice the slippage of the flange as the wheel is rocking to and fro. This can lead to great frustration. Solve this problem by putting a bit of chewing gum between the flange and the wheel. Or better yet, upset the inside of the flange arbor holes with a prick punch as seen in the photo below. Either of these two methods will provide enough friction and prevent the flange from rotating relative to the grinding wheel on its own.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207390068331837762"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SERdrV3Q-UI/AAAAAAAAArs/wab2bD4EYdM/s800/17_bal_9.jpg" /></a><br /><br />I hope your wheels run with reduced vibration. You may even see less waviness on the surface finish of the items produced on your surface grinder.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-58626358852612030572008-06-02T12:20:00.001-05:002008-06-02T12:21:46.666-05:00Silver Soldering Jig and TipsMcgyver <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=12654">posted</a> on the HSM forum about a 'third hand' jig he built for silver soldering:<br /><br />occasionally I have to silver solder something, and holding the parts in alignment is a real pain. the commercial product below is worse that useless - complete POS<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207328074773886866"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQlS13Q95I/AAAAAAAAAoU/ueD97UUGAto/s800/01_worstthanuselessthirdhand.jpg" /></a><br /><br />so i made of the following. fairly simple, uses solid cotters<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207328074773886882"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQlS13Q96I/AAAAAAAAAoc/7aa5jOWx7K4/s800/02_3e5f7733.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207328079068854194"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQlTF3Q97I/AAAAAAAAAok/n0Qr_7w9qQM/s800/03_Mcgyversthirdhandcloseup.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207328079068854210"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQlTF3Q98I/AAAAAAAAAos/hgjwHoVsqj0/s800/04_McgyversthirdhandcloseupII.jpg" /></a><br /><br />the ball on the last one is for to-be-built arms (one day) the work surfaces are AL so SS doesn't stick and are thin so as not to be heat sinks. the small V-block is angle milled thin and peened onto the shaft, there's also a large one not shown. the larger black spring paper clips (if that's what there called) are good for clamping, although all manner of attachments could be made<br /><br /><HR><br /><br />http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=14957<br />Forrest Addy posted the following tips on silver soldering:<br /><br />Here's from a piece I contributed to the HSM Tips book:<br /><br />I have years of experience joining metals with silver bearing alloys as a part of my trade. The process is called variously "silver soldering" or "silver brazing". Purists will argue the call indefinitely. I prefer "silver brazing" but the name isn't really that important so long as it's in common use and all agree to the process the term covers.<br /><br />A prospective maker of tools needs skill and know-how in the selection and use of silver brazing materials and processes. The parts to be joined have to be snugly fitted and cleaned to bright metal, free of oil or other organics (including abrasive cloth residues which inevitably includes powered glue bonding agent). Silver brazing alloys feature high surface tension, high strength, and sudden melting points. The heat source can be anything from a home center Burnz-o-Matic torch, to acetylene, to oxy-hydrogen, to a charcoal grill. All you really need is enough reducing heat that rapidly raises the temperature of the work to brazing heat.<br /><br />I recommend Harris Safety Silv #56 (I know, phony sounding name, but this stuff has been widely used for generations) and Harris white brazing flux for small brazing projects. Use the black flux for larger projects where a longer 'active time' is necessary. This is available from most any welding supply house in your area. These products are specifically recommended for bonding ferrous alloys to ferrous and copper alloys. The flux in a 6.4 oz plastic jar costs about $7 and the silver as 1/16" wire in a 1 troy oz coil costs about $18. It takes me a few years to consume an ounce of silver brazing alloy wire.<br /><br />Captive joint fit-ups (a socket joint for example) needs 0.002 to 0.004" total clearance for proper silver penetration. More if the captive part expands more rapidly than the socket (brass or copper in a steel socket). If you set up the joint correctly capillary action of the silver will try to center the components reducing the eccentric displacement you'd ordinarily expect to a fraction of the total clearance.<br /><br />Have everything on hand, fully cleaned and prepared, even to a 6 to 10" length of the silver wire scrubbed clean with steel wool. Straighten a length and use it right off the coil. Don't cut it; the coil makes a convenient handle<br /><br />Once the joint has been prepped, devise a means of holding the work in alignment. Thoroughly clean the parts and swab them liberally with flux. Apply heat to the work. The flux will boil from the heat, and as the water flashes off, the flux will turn white. As heating progresses the flux clarifies and begins to look like clear syrup. Procede heating to work to a dull redheat as seen in dim light. Warm the silver and dip it in the flux jar. Warm it again until the flux turns to syrup and apply a dab to the work. It requires a bit of coordination. A lot happens quickly when the work gets to temperature so don't practice on elaborate, hard to replace work.<br /><br />There will be an instant when the work and the silver arrive at the melting point. The skill of the torch wielder is determined when they both arrive at the melting point at the same instant. A tiny bead of silver sitting on the joint crevice makes a good indicator. It will sit there and glisten then suddenly disappear into the joint like a cockroach into a crack. This will be at a low red heat visible in room light - about 1200 degrees. When the bead disappears apply more silver and a bit more heat working around the joint until the joint brims. Stop and look. Extra silver and heat will not improve the joint.<br /><br />Allow the work to cool a bit in position before quenching it. Quench only work that tolerates it. HSS and carbide are likely to crack. The flux will tightly adhere like porcelain enamel but it softens after 20 minutes in boiling hot water and then it's easy to remove with a stiff brush. This is an important step because the flux is acidic and hygroscopic. Adherent residues will cause rust on iron or steel and you cannot satisfactorily paint over any kind of flux.<br /><br />Cast iron silver brazes poorly because the surface graphite interrupts the flow. Glass bead the cast iron's joint area to white metal immediately before brazing. Move briskly in humid weather or if the bead blasting air is moist. Moist cast iron will form an invisible, silver resistant oxidation almost instantly.<br /><br />Carbide also forms a surface film that resists brazing. I strop the carbide on a diamond sharpening stone to bright metal where I want the silver to stick. Since the film is much softer than the carbide bead blasting also works very well.<br /><br />Make a couple of long pokers to push and pull the small bits where they need to go. The capillary action of the silver is sometimes enough to shift even medium sized pieces out of position. Simple 3/16" dia bare steel rods 10" long stuck in wood file handles work well. Don't use brass or stainless. An accumulation of dirty black oxide will reduce the tendency of the flux and silver to make the pokers a permanent part of the project.<br /><br />The flux jar once opened poses a maintenance problem. Keep the jar threads and the lid clean so it seals tightly. If the flux in the jar dries to a sugary looking cake, add a few drops of water and heat it in boiling water. Stir it to a thick but creamy consistency adding drops of water until its about like gel toothpaste. Read the label. Silver brazing flux contains irritants. Wash up afterwards.<br /><br />Note: some HSS tool steels hold up better to silver brazing heat. Molybdenum HSS, like M2 and M4, soften somewhat and lose edge durability. T-4 holds its hardness much better. Although T-4 is more expensive and would ordinarily be overkill if used on woodworking tools, its edge holding after a spell of silver brazing temperature dictates its selection.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-42915395233590390292008-06-02T10:56:00.012-05:002012-08-23T14:27:46.622-05:00Universal Grinding FixtureAwhile back Mcgyver <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=14890">posted</a> an excellent writeup of his build of a Universal Grinding Fixture on the HSM forum:<br />
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I wanted a universal fixture for the T&C grinder, capable of holding drill bits and lathe tool bits so that I could easily to facetted drill sharpening, acme or V thread bits etc. I had fun taking pics through the build and thought you guys might enjoy them<br />
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The assembly was fabricated using my stick welder<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317281521071602"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbel3Q9fI/AAAAAAAAAk4/y8QuJvBG0Ko/s800/01_clampedforwelding2.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317285816038914"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbe13Q9gI/AAAAAAAAAlA/vnuWgdyh-d0/s800/02_elbowuniversal.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's an overview of the unit after welding<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317285816038930"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbe13Q9hI/AAAAAAAAAlI/0TWL75dAp5c/s800/03_mockofunivestalswivel.jpg" /></a><br />
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I sent everything out to be normalized and had the drill V-block case hardened at the same time. Well worth the $30 to know its going to be reasonably stable<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317290111006242"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbfF3Q9iI/AAAAAAAAAlQ/iEFyRy3KUC4/s800/04_anglepiecesafternormalizing.jpg" /></a><br />
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For accurate work, you need a reference surface. I decided to scrap in one side of the elbows so there would be no distortion from clamping. Started with the power scraper<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317290111006258"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbfF3Q9jI/AAAAAAAAAlY/X5UV5cfq2vc/s800/05_scraping1.jpg" /></a><br />
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and finished with a hand scraper. Almost complete blue-out - good enough for the girls I know!<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317406075123266"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbl13Q9kI/AAAAAAAAAlg/eZEzmMVF264/s800/06_scraping-blueout.jpg" /></a><br />
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I bolted each elbow to a tool makers block (made by yours truly, hardened and ground square to 1/10 thou all over and done as a matched pair).<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317406075123282"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbl13Q9lI/AAAAAAAAAlo/J4Q9Vg-iJso/s800/07_settingupforgrinding.jpg" /></a><br />
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The elbows are now all squared up.<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317410370090594"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbmF3Q9mI/AAAAAAAAAlw/72cQFZk1jwE/s800/08_aftergrinding.jpg" /></a><br />
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I then made an arbor for the lathe to clean up the circumference.<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317410370090610"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbmF3Q9nI/AAAAAAAAAl4/tptefuANEl4/s800/09_cleaningupinthelathe.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's an elbow, square and ready for divisions<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317410370090626"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbmF3Q9oI/AAAAAAAAAmA/bH5KzoZgGwg/s800/10_readyforindexing.jpg" /></a><br />
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I graduated each axis in degrees - TEDIUM! Gotta get the 4 axis cnc built!<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317522039240338"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbsl3Q9pI/AAAAAAAAAmI/qJKGUbmTSEs/s800/11_graduating.jpg" /></a><br />
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With one disk graduated, the other needs a witness mark. Here I'm using an indicator to get the disk's face parallel to the machine's axis before make a witness mark on the base<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317522039240354"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbsl3Q9qI/AAAAAAAAAmQ/tin1ibqatVc/s800/12_marktomatchgraduatingmarks.jpg" /></a><br />
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Graduating all done!<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317526334207666"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbs13Q9rI/AAAAAAAAAmY/ITE5rHdwTrg/s800/13_graduatingdone.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's progress to date, I mainly included this shot to show the tool bit holder attachment.<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317530629174978"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbtF3Q9sI/AAAAAAAAAmg/ZNWyj5CDHOY/s800/14_attachmentforgrindingtoolbits.jpg" /></a><br />
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Now things get messy. I used auto body filler, spot putty and a couple of coats of cellulose primer with sanding in between<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317530629174994"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbtF3Q9tI/AAAAAAAAAmo/-F8jXcyvVUA/s800/15_bondo.jpg" /></a><br />
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This is chronologically a bit out of order - machining on the V-block was done prior to case hardening. Here am drilling the two longitudinal holes, one for the tooth rest gizmo and the other for rest at the end of the drill. The two bars the make up these mechanisms are held via cotters - you can see the brass cotter the intersects the hole and the 1/4" ready rod holding it in place<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317646593292002"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQbz13Q9uI/AAAAAAAAAmw/zB3Wd2IMTmE/s800/16_drillingthevblockandcotters.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here the V is being cut. <br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317650888259314"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb0F3Q9vI/AAAAAAAAAm4/8J45gwOemJ4/s800/17_cuttingtheV.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's the drill stop - an adjustable gizmo that the end of the drill rests against. There are a couple of different attachments for this - ie a long thin adjusting screw for very small dia drills and different lengths of the long rod. It will hold drills from 1/16 to 1" or more<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317650888259330"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb0F3Q9wI/AAAAAAAAAnA/Cupt6KF17iM/s800/18_stopforendofdrill.jpg" /></a><br />
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I made this "third hand" rig and posted pics of it here awhile ago, and a few wanted to see it in use - here you go. It's a real time saver, otherwise to do this job properly you'd be pinning or such the pieces together. The work piece is the {rest missing}<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317655183226642"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb0V3Q9xI/AAAAAAAAAnI/5UEMDFMtPHM/s800/19_usingthethirdhand.jpg" /></a><br />
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I get the best silver solder results by placing small pieces of solder in the flux and then just warming everything up<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317655183226658"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb0V3Q9yI/AAAAAAAAAnQ/oiWuj_p2pWQ/s800/20_silversoldering.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's the tooth rest body after pickling and slitting<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317758262441778"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb6V3Q9zI/AAAAAAAAAnY/di3u4HS_qdM/s800/21_completedtoothrestbody.jpg" /></a><br />
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The tooth rest is almost done. There will be a micrometer feed on the end, I still have to make the screw and end piece. The idea is that between its built in adjustments and the convenience of the cotter holding it in the V block, its quickly adjustable to any position and then the micrometer adjustment can bring the tooth rest do the final position<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317758262441794"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb6V3Q90I/AAAAAAAAAng/_TlBfCfqg18/s800/22_drilltoothrestcomplete.jpg" /></a><br />
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The V block is being set up for grinding. It was ground all over after case hardening and an oil quench. <br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317762557409106"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb6l3Q91I/AAAAAAAAAno/Q02mcSWMvqE/s800/23_settingupvblockforgrinding.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here's the completed unit. I used the Tremclad hammer finish paint - I don't think I'd recommend it and probably won't use it again but don't have energy right now to refinish.<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207317766852376418"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQb613Q92I/AAAAAAAAAnw/mLd4tFp-Nn8/s800/24_completed.jpg" /></a><br />
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More Comments:<br />
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Graduations were done with the work held in a dividing head and a sharp V with some positive rake ground on a round hss blank held in a collet in the mill. The mill has a friction brake, I locked this on (with duct tape, handy mans secret weapon) and cut each line by moving mill table, cut was about 5 thou deep, 5 & tens marks received longer lines. I've not yet stamped the numbers, will probably use the pillar tool with some sort of rig, but haven't thought that out yet.<br />
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It's all mild steel except for the obvious brass pieces. A lot of the photos do look like AL, that's because after normalizing the heat treater kindly ran them through his sandblaster.<br />
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In an <a href="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/showthread.php?t=15226">update</a>, Mcgvyer posted the following:<br />
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For those of you not sick of my grinding pics, here's a follow up and some shots of it in use<br />
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First off, I redesigned the micrometer tooth rest - it needed more of an offset and longer range. Here it is ready to go - 5 separate silver solder joints on this assembly<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207334109202937810"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQqyF3Q99I/AAAAAAAAAo0/eeew0rzJ3kM/s800/27_pt2toothrest.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207334113497905122"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQqyV3Q9-I/AAAAAAAAAo8/Ww05JAAO6qI/s800/28_pt2trassembly.jpg" /></a><br />
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The V block is case hardened and ground all over, also finished the cotters so both the drill stop and tooth rest is very easy to adjust.<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207334113497905138"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQqyV3Q9_I/AAAAAAAAApE/rIXlEsNmvuY/s800/29_pt2trvbloc.jpg" /></a><br />
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The angles are set on the graduated dials on the universal swivel, I was doing a 118 point with two clearance facets, one at 15 and one at 30 degrees. The drill is placed in the v block and the stop and tooth rest adjusted then tightened down. I generally index the drill and do both cuts on one facet then change the angle of the base to do the second facet or bevel. Over the past couple of week ends I made a mobile stand for bench top T&C - I found it really hard to set up (ie tooth rest) if I couldn't get access all around the machine to view the set up.<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207334117792872450"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQqyl3Q-AI/AAAAAAAAApM/2fOSGh2Rc1k/s800/30_pt2readytogrind.jpg" /></a><br />
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Grinding grinding grinding<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207334117792872466"><img src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQqyl3Q-BI/AAAAAAAAApU/jPChk2XXF8A/s800/31_pt2grinding.jpg" /></a><br />
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By making different lengths of rod for the drill stop, the rig can hand almost any size drill<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207334182217381922"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQq2V3Q-CI/AAAAAAAAApc/2iBc2YqkAvc/s800/32_pt2withlargerdrill.jpg" /></a><br />
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The final result. Yeah, I can sharpen a drill by hand but it will take me a lifetime of Sundays to get so that they are as nice as this. Since they are virtually perfectly symmetrical, the cut very accurately. The one I tried and measured was within a thou, give the limits of small hole gauges.<br />
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<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5207334182217381938"><img src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/applescotty/SEQq2V3Q-DI/AAAAAAAAApk/8g6dypI_zv4/s800/33_pt2sharpeneddrills.jpg" /></a>
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On the Shop Made Tools thread on the Home Shop Machinist forum, mattinker <a href ="http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/threads/39202-Shop-Made-Tools?p=788664#post788664">posted</a> some photos of an alternative design that looks like it might be simpler to build. He says:
"My tooling for my Clarkson Mk I T&G is slowly getting there, slowly. When I made my Morse 3 tool holder, I discovered split cotters. So I started with three of the following "D" shapes, two of which had split cotters.
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-nkdXkJPQ9Ro/UDaB04R5AaI/AAAAAAAAB9I/B33XEdwQeW0/s800/splitc1.jpg">
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wcBu7EgvFc0/UDaB01stzDI/AAAAAAAAB8Q/efmNnPvY--c/s800/splitc2.jpg">
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-rz9e-mbdhao/UDaB1jm6TwI/AAAAAAAAB8k/P89ErEhdOjA/s800/univ4.jpg">
I fabricated around the "D's", the base plate one is a little bigger. The 20mm diameter CRS round was welded to the first "D" and the face that mates with the second was faced off.
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Mph_7IoZ-Po/UDaB1iSQuZI/AAAAAAAAB8o/aUutJ-6raLw/s800/univ5.jpg">
A second stub was welded to the second "D" which was faced off to mate with the first using a stub of CRS locked with the split cotter.
<img src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-WtIPK7A7GKw/UDaB1_x7MdI/AAAAAAAAB8w/3jseWetH52E/s800/univ6.jpg">
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-qyWMDacSHM4/UDaB161OUMI/AAAAAAAAB80/kg4WLUtFZlU/s800/univ7.jpg">
The third "D" with the second split cotter with the vice mounting plate welded to it.
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-8FZ0weAgV_s/UDaB2Dkj-YI/AAAAAAAAB9A/THWs3m10CWY/s800/univ8.jpg">
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-bpThK12XWd4/UDaB2QXj6cI/AAAAAAAAB88/jnHYjkRqTZU/s800/univ9.jpg">
<img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-P9ayZoqc3SI/UDaB04mcMmI/AAAAAAAAB8U/m_pQ67vXoOs/s800/univ1.jpg">
The vise is a 1" screwless from CTC Tools which is big enough for my biggest lathe tools.
<img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wM1zFPEIPdU/UDaB1NexuiI/AAAAAAAAB8g/2pJq4pOTWS0/s800/univ2.jpg">
<img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Mn-Sg22nG_4/UDaB1QbzN1I/AAAAAAAAB8c/A9yZf3YHmdM/s800/univ3.jpg">applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-26873725247481853362008-05-27T11:59:00.002-05:002008-05-27T12:07:43.715-05:00End Rounding ToolOver on the HMEM forum, Cedge <a href="http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=2055.0">posted</a> about his end rounding tool:<br /><br />Paolo requested a drawing of the rounding table I'm using. Since I seldom make drawings to work from, we agreed that maybe photos will help him and others who want to add the tool to their stable. Please note that the photos show the parts and their relationship to each other and the narrative is not written in the order of construction. I'll do this later in the post.<br /><br />PHOTO #1<br />Here is the table in full disassembly. The parts are simple and consist of a block to use for mounting as well as to hold the mandrel and associated locking mechanism. The locking mechanism is made from a small piece of 1/2" aluminum with a 1/2" radius cut in the end to allow it to mate fit snugly against the mandrel. The mandrel is 1/2 " aluminum round stock with a 3/16 hole drilled half way through it to accept a 3/16" inch piece of brass. Use a set screw or red Loctite to secure it but be careful that the screw does not interfere with inserting the mandrel in the mounting block. Length on these two pieces is not critical. The top plate is 1/2 x 6 " inch aluminum which came in the round shape from the local scrap yard.<br /><br />***Note The center pivot rod was made of brass to prevent galling, something soon discovered when it was made of steel.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5205104243787232610"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SDw-u13Q9WI/AAAAAAAAAjg/esxJOM5wP3A/s800/rounder-1.jpg" /></a><br /><br />PHOTO #2<br />This photo shows the opposite end of the mounting block. Note that this hole was drilled through the block from end to end before the larger 1/2" hole was drilled in the other end. The 1/2" hole is only as deep as required to recess the "brake" and the large end of the small rod. The shaft on the small rod is 3/16. The small hole was then threaded deep enough to allow the 1/4 x20 TPI screw to push the brake against the 1/2 mandrel. This acts much like a brake shoe and hold the mandrel in place. It also allows the mandrel and brass pivot to be raised or lowered as needed.<br /><br />Note that the cutter slot in the top plate does not have to go all the way through the plate. It only needs to be deep enough to allow the tip of the end mill to drop below table level. but I did make it a bit deeper than required, to collect chips. I also drill two 1/2" holes in it to let the swarf escape from the slot. The cutter slot was milled to within 3/16" of the center hole to allow close in work. I might eventually mill it to within 1/8" for even smaller diameter cutting.<br /><br />***Note... The slot was cut after the mounting block was bolted on. This made for an easy alignment to the table travel.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5205104248082199922"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SDw-vF3Q9XI/AAAAAAAAAjo/u7BPKLdflV8/s800/rounder-2.jpg" /></a><br /><br />PHOTO #3<br />In this picture, you can see the bottom side of the top plate and the ledge machined for the stop clamps to grip. The four bolt holes are tapped to 14 x 20 TPI for rigidity and long term durability.<br /><br />Look closely and you can see the brake rod has been placed in the end of the block. The small aluminum brake shoe goes in next. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5205104248082199938"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SDw-vF3Q9YI/AAAAAAAAAjw/g4F3eh72DC0/s800/rounder-3.jpg" /></a><br /><br />PHOTO #4<br />Here the brake shoe has been inserted and the mandrel has been set into position within the mounting block.. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5205104248082199954"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SDw-vF3Q9ZI/AAAAAAAAAj4/CxLgdWo3ACg/s800/rounder-4.jpg" /></a><br /><br />PHOTO #5<br />Here is a view of the bottom of the table with the mounting block bolted in place. The screw in the end of the mounting block is used to tighten the brake assembly against the mandrel, after it was adjusted for the desired height of the brass pivot. The mandrel can be easily removed or readjusted by loosening the screw. The table does not have to be disassembled to do this. <br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5205104248082199970"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SDw-vF3Q9aI/AAAAAAAAAkA/2kkNk1wBNY8/s800/rounder-5.jpg" /></a><br /><br />PHOTO #6<br />Here you can see the brass pivot after being adjusted for height as well as the clamps which fit onto the edge of the table. The clamps are made from a scrap piece of 3/4" x1" aluminum square stock. They were drilled and then slit using the popular carbide saw that was the subject of a previous thread or two. You can see this amazing little saw in action on my Water Pressure Engine Thread. By cutting into the drilled hole, very close to the back of the stock, it allows a fairly stiff spring action which lets the clamp flex when the screw is tightened. I chose 10 x 24 TPI screws for these.<br /><br />You can also see the lines I've scribed into the table top for easy to see position references. <br /><br />***Note... the bottom half of the clamp's screw hole is tapped while the top is drilled to 3/16" for screw clearance.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5205104312506709426"><img src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/applescotty/SDw-y13Q9bI/AAAAAAAAAkI/nah62KS2nAA/s800/rounder-6.jpg" /></a><br /><br />PHOTO #7<br />This final photo shows the table in complete assembly, including the small lock I use on the pivot to hold the work piece down. This lock was made from a drill stop purchased at Harbor Freight. Two sides were machined flat to allow working close to the pivot. The flat next to the cutter slot was also beveled to allow for clearing the 3/8" shank on many small end mills.<br /><br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5205104316801676738"><img src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/applescotty/SDw-zF3Q9cI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/NfasSSaZVQg/s800/rounder-7.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Several warnings are in order for those who want to use this tool.<br /><br />#1... Keep in mind that you are going to be controlling this operation with your hands very near a spinning high speed steel end mill that doesn't care if it eats metal or flesh and bones. One small lapse in attention is all it takes to get into real trouble. Stay focused or leave this tool alone. SAFETY FIRST and double that with this tool.<br /><br />#2...Use small diameter end mills and light cuts. Larger end mills tend try to snatch the work away and can cause injury.<br /><br />#3... This tool does not tolerate climbing cuts very well. You can do so on a "return" cut, but studiously avoid it with any fresh advance into the work piece.<br /><br />#4 ...Avoid using this tool if the work piece does not extend beyond the edge of the table unless you can easily grip it with vice grips or other locking grip tool.<br /><br />#5... The stop blocks are not there for decoration. They limit the travel of the work piece to prevent it getting away from you. They are great for letting you "hit the mark" but they are there primarily for your safety.<br /><br />#6... If you are not comfortable with the tool or your setup... don't even think about using it.<br /><br />#7... Building and using this tool is your personal choice, just as it has been mine. By the very act of making and or using this tool you are agreeing to accept any and all responsibility for your own actions and their results. I will assume no responsibility for any injury or damages incurred from its use whether due to use, misuse, design flaws or any omissions of this material, even if informed of the existence of such conditions.<br /><br /><br />Ok... now for the order of the build<br /><br />Square the mounting block in the mill<br /><br />Drill and ream the mandrel hole to 3/16" at this time.<br /> <br />Drill the 4 mounting holes but do not counter bore or thread yet.<br /><br />Turn and face both sides of top plate to size on lathe, adding the clamp flange to a depth approximately 5/16" depth.<br /><br />Center drill the top plate and ream to 3/16" and remove from the lathe.<br /><br />Insert 3/16 drill rod or dowel pin rod through top late into the mounting block to align and center the two pieces.<br /><br />Using a transfer punch, mark the four holes in the mounting block onto the back side of the top plate.<br /><br />Drill the four holes being careful not to drill through the top plate and then tap them according to the size screws you have chosen to use.<br /><br />Bolt the two pieces together and mount the block in the vise.<br /><br />Mill the cutting slot and drill the swarf escape holes. I made mine 1/2 wide but a narrower slot is fine.<br /><br />Remove the bolts and drill and ream the 3/16 hole in the mounting block to 1/2"<br /><br />Next, drill a hole from end to end of the mounting block. I used a #7 bit to allow for a 1/4 " x 20 TPI socket head cap screw. This also gives clearance for the 3/16" shaft of the brake rod.<br /><br />Turn the brake rod on the lathe, making one end just under 1/2". Diameter and length are not critical as long as the end will free run in a 1/2" hole. The small end needs to be long enough for the adjusting screw to reach it with a bit of thread still showing. This can be adjusted by cutting the length as needed during fitting. Diameter of the small end is not critical, as long as it is free moving within the long hole you drilled.<br /><br />The next operation is performed on the mounting block end nearest the 1/2" mandrel hole. Drill and ream the 3/16 hole to 1/2 inch to a depth that will accept the large end of the brake rod plus approximately 3/8".<br /><br />Place a piece of 1/2" round aluminum in the mill vise, find the center and using a 1/2" end mill, recess one end to accept the mandrel. This can be a fairly shallow cut bu the more surface are the better it will lock the mandrel.<br /><br />Cut the this milled end to about 5/16" in length and slip it into the end of the block, making sure it recesses just beyond the mandrel's hole.<br /><br />Drill and ream a 3/16" hole in a 1/2 x 1" " piece of round aluminum.<br /><br />Press fit, or loctite a piece of 3/16 brass rod into the aluminum mandrel. A set screw can be used but make sure it is fully recessed into the mandrel.<br /><br />Bolt the table top and the mounting block back together.<br /><br />Fit the mandrel into its hole and tighten the brake screw to assure it will lock the mandrel in place. Adjust the brake rod length or hole depth as required to give easy operation.<br /><br />Make a small top locking ring for the brass rod for holding the work piece down.<br /><br />Make up and fit the clamps and you are ready to use the table.<br /><br /><br /><br />You will notice I've offered no specific dimensions. This was intentional since the size of vises, mill work spaces and personal preferences will vary widely. I use a screwless vise so the mounting block was extended past the edge of the table to make it easier to secure the table and still reach the bolt on the vise.<br /><br />The clamps were notched on the bottom side, as shown in photo #6, so they seat firmly against the round table top at two points. This prevents them from rocking when being tightened. Rounding the exposed edges of the clamps will help prevent tool marks on your work piece.<br /><br />It's a long post and I think I've covered the process from beginning to end, but feel free to ask questions or request clarifications if my rambling gets confusing. Enjoy making and using the tool and be sure to thank Marv Klotz for sharing the original idea. Without his generosity in sharing his ingenious tooling ideas, we'd all still be doing things the hard way.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-62658084304758117652008-04-18T11:13:00.002-05:002008-04-18T11:18:24.591-05:00PolishingThere's a good <a href="http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=757.0">thread</a> on the HMEM board talking about polishing and finishing models:<br /><br />I am assuming that you will be final polishing with a buffing wheel. An unstitched linen wheel and very fine buffing compound, plus some vienna lime to finish off.<br /><br />Nothing looks worse on models that are being displayed as machining marks.<br />We all get them, some a bit worse than others. The way I look at it is that if it takes me an hour to machine a part, it will most probably take me two hours to get it to a stage for polishing. Remember polishing, because unless you get your metal smooth, polishing it will make it worse.<br />The only correct way to get your metal prepared is to imagine a ripe soft fruit on the tree, with not a blemish on the skin, if you can get your metal to this stage, it is then ready to polish, not before.<br />No easy way around this, pure finger aching, skin blistering hard work.<br />I use a combination of files starting from smooth to almost a plain piece of metal, none of your one swipe to remove 1/2" here. On brass and ali I do a lot of scraping on the faces, an old hacksaw blade with the teeth ground off, then the edge honed on an oilstone to get it totally flat will work wonders when dragged along a rough machined face, square HSS blanks will do the same job, so will your neighbours best wood chisel. Then finish off with finer grades of either wet or dry paper or emery cloth, not held in the fingers, but wrapped around somehing solid. If you use your fingers you will get hollows forming in the edges, not noticeable at this stage, but after polishing will look awful. This is just on the edges, now for flat faces.<br />You have got to keep flat faces truly flat, with nice sharp edges.<br />Again the way I do mine is use a hard flat face to work from. You have all seen my tapping fixture that I also use for taking pictures on, well that started life as a small surface plate, so that is my flat surface. Yours could be a very smooth worktop, or like I used to use, a glass plate out of an old photocopier, or go to your local glass merchant and get a piece cut to about 12" square, but ask him to smooth the edges for you.<br />What you are after for your metal is a perfectly smooth flat surface with very sharp edges.<br />I use masking tape to stick down sheets of abrasive paper, if wet or dry I put a couple of drops of oil on it to keep the cutting edges sharp. Normally I will start with 400 grade and work my way up to 1200. No backwards and forwards or side to side on this operation, it will introduce a curvature to the flat face. The method used is a lapping technique, whereby you move the job in a figure of eight motion, keeping a steady downwards pressure. After a time you will get into a rhythm and will soon eradicate those annoying marks. Perfection takes time.<br />You should finish up with a nice, matt, smooth as a babies bum with very sharp edges. Now you can polish it.<br />The reason you do not polish out machining marks with a buffing wheel is that after you get the marks out, the surface finish will look like a bendy mirror in a sideshow stall, and the corners will look like they had been done with a roundover bit. Not what we are after. If you prepare the metal as I have said, polishing with a wheel will take seconds and the job will look like it has been plated. That was for work with flat or miller cut radii. For round bits done on a lathe, it is usually rather a lot easier because you can get the machine to do the work for you.<br />If you are smoothing curved bits on the lathe then using loose emery strips or wire wool or scotchbrite, work over gently by hand, being very careful about getting near to the chuck, we are trying to polish, not paint red. For straight areas or large inside curves wrap emery around a flat piece of softwood or round dowel and use it in a filing motion to polish the surface. Again when all machining marks are gone, a few seconds on the buffing wheel will really make it shine.<br />This was a brief description of how I manage it, other people have different methods, and I hope they will post them here.<br /><br />Now a quickie from me. I have been building models for many years from wood and plastics and I can get a great paint finish on them, but getting the paint to stick to metal correctly and achieve a showroom finish has so far eluded me. This would make a fine next post.<br /><br />John<br /><HR><br /><br />From Cedge.<br /><br />John<br />When I first began researching the machinist forums, I often encountered the question, usually asked by a newbie... How do you get a mirror like finish with a final cut?. The answer is always the same... You don't get a mirror finish from a final cut. You have to do it by hand. I do things pretty much as you've described, but my finest wet dry paper is 2500 grit and I've got a few sheets of lapping paper that go as fine as 3 microns. I finish things off with a metal polish called MAAS, which is somewhat like Flitz or SimChrome. It seems to give me a better finish on more types of metal than the other two products.<br /><br />Flat surfaces get lapped. You can do light touch up with a finger, later, but an nice even flat surface finish requires lapping on a nice flat surface. Here is a another tip that no one thinks to tell you. When lapping or sanding aluminum, use a bit of WD40 on the paper. As you work the piece, a gray paste will begin to form, created by the combination of lubricant and aluminum dust. This paste will begin to load up your sand paper pretty quickly. Many users would exchange this slick sheet for new paper when this happens. However, this is when things are just beginning to get right. Here's why.<br /><br />Aluminum oxidizes as soon as air hit it. This oxide coating is of the same chemical make up as sapphire or ruby, which are next to diamond in hardness. The best grades of sand paper or emery are made with... Aluminum Oxide(silicon carbide). As the sand paper sheet loads up it is also quickly becoming a very high grade, super fine grit abrasive which is excellent for fine finishing metals. Don't throw the paper away... put it in a plastic bag to keep it dust and swarf free for use, not only on aluminum, but brass, copper, bronze, steel, cast iron, even stainless.<br /><br />When polishing out tool marks on the lathe, use a sanding block. Its flat surface will prevent those finger induced ripples. The sanding block also gives you something substantial to grip a bit removed from those spinning jaw chucks. I begin with 100 grit to knock off the high ridges and then follow on with 220 grit. then I jump to 400 or 600 before using 1200 and 2500 grits. I also use MAAS, but great care has to be given to keeping the cloth from mating with the spinning chuck jaws. Never warp a finger or hand in the cloth and only hold it so that if it should snag, it will easily escape your hand and you do not follow it into the vortex. Simple rule... rags and chucks don't get along well. Keep trailing ends well out of reach of those snarling jaws. You need to know where all your digits are and where the rag is at all times. One lapse of attention is all trouble need to invade the scene. If you aren't comfortable with this step, don't do it. It is potentially dangerous if done carelessly.<br /><br />Don't underestimate the value of a Dremel tool and polishing felts. They can make working in a contour or a recess a lot less of a headache. A Dremel felt and MAAS will make short work of difficult access spots. I typically prefer hand polishing, but I'm not going to work harder than is required for good results.<br /><br />Like John, a good shine is what tells me my engine is truly completed. It only takes a bit more time, but the results are a huge plus, well worth the little additional work it requires.<br /><br />Steve<br /><HR><br /><br />Some real good tips there Steve.<br />I would just like to add that using a buffing wheel or hand polishing is purely a personal choice, they both give the same results. A deep lustre, that when you look onto a flat polished surface it should be like a mirror with little or no distortion.<br />Now I forgot about his question when I asked about the paint job. Laquering polished parts to retain the shine. But please try to keep any answers to a neutral product range, not all commercially named products are marketted worlwide. I am fed up of stripping down engines to give them a once over.<br /><br />John<br /><HR><br /><br />From Gilessim<br /><br />I've found that the 2 component paint that they use in car body shops now seems to work well even without primer on small bits, the new stuff is also water-based so doesn't stink!, usually the local car body shop will give you a drop in an old can if you ask nicely!, if you put enough paint on ,any blemishes can be "cut out" using fine paper and water as described for polishing metal above, as this type of paint dries very, very hard, though I would leave out the buffing wheel stage on the metal before painting.<br />Ally ,on the other hand is more tricky, as you should use what is known as "self etching primer" to get it to stick, I don't have any experience with this although I've seen it used and I expect that these days there are new products to prepare the ally first...Giles<br /><HR><br /><br />From Compound Driver<br /><br />HI<br /><br />Ok heres how I brush paint a traction engine. My first requirment from a painted surface is a glass smooth end result with no brush marks runs or dimples.<br /><br />The first primer coat is always an etch primer brushed and not sprayed. Pheonix precision paints in the UK do a superb single pack etch that goes on really well. This coat is left for a few days to harden fully. I then apply a coat of red oxide primer and let that dry for a few more days.<br />I next apply a second coat of red oxide and after two days flat that back with 140 grit wet n dry almost to the gray etch primer. The third primer coat then goes on with long even brush strokes side to side on the item being painted. Again two or three days between this coat and the next.<br /><br />The first colour coat now goes on again full length strokes allowing the paint to flow out from the brush. Once this coat has had seven days to harden fully I rub down with 140 grit to the point that almost all the colour has gone leaving mostly red oxide.<br /><br />This procedure is carried out a further half dozen times taking less paint away each time. At the end of the six or seventh colour coat the surface will be blemish free and almost good enough to be happy with. At this stage I go to 400 grit and do the same for another five coats. Im still leaving atleast 48 hours between coats for the paint to harden.<br /><br />Once im happy that there are no surface defects the finish coats are applied and rubbed using 600 or 800 paper. il do as many of these as I need to give the glass like finish. By this time the paint should be going on with out any brush marks.<br /><br />The very last coat I thin the paint by about 10% and rub before its put on. with 1000 grit or crocus paper. I then leave the part to harden for atleast seven days before the coach lines are painted on.<br /><br />What paint do I use? well to be honest the cheapest enamel paint I can find. in general it comes from my local decorating shop. Colours are matched by them and it works fine.<br /><br />My brushes are all sable except for my primer brush and thats nylon. I bought my brushes ten years ago and hope to get another few years out of them before i have to replace them.<br /><br />An average traction engine tender takes 8 weeks to paint and a weel to line out.<br /><br />Cheers kevin<br /><HR><br /><br />From Cedge<br /><br />Kevin<br />Good points, all. Something you might try, after the etching coat, is a product called "filler primer". It is formulated to quickly build up in the pits and scratches, making the sanding step a little less arduous. You'll probably find that the number of required coats will drop dramatically before achieving the glass finish you like. It wet sands nicely and makes for a slick finish. Think of it as a primer that wishes it was a body filler.<br /><br />The one point you expressed that needs to be noted is exercising patience between actions. Most paint screw ups come from not letting the coating cure before properly sanding or other handling. I'm as guilt as anyone about wanting to rush the drying cycle and I have paid for it every time...LOL. A perfect coat of paint requires a lot more than simply grabbing a spray can and going at it.<br /><br />Having painted with heavy commercial equipment in the past, I'm not afraid of spraying vs brushing. Although I've never been all that good with a brush. Both have to be prepped the right way or your finish is going to be less than stellar.<br /><br /><br />Steve<br /><HR><br /><br />From Compound Driver<br /><br />HI Steve<br /><br />The filler primer is ok but goes on way too thick leading to a ripple on the finish. Its ok sprayed but that defeats the object of coach finishing.<br /><br />About twenty coats of paint is the point I aim for. Each coat adds depth to the finished shine. I do sometimes wish there was an easy way to paint the spoked wheels 20 coats on them can dull the senses a bit.<br /><br />My Durham ended up with 35 coats on the boiler horns and tender took almost a year to do the paint I must be madd.<br /><br />Cheers kevin<br /><HR><br /><br />Goodness me lads,<br />I was expecting, get these two cans, shake it, spray it, job done.<br />You've got to remember I make an engine a month, no way am I waiting that long to start my next project <br /><br />Now what about laquer for stopping shiny bits going dull.<br /><br />John<br /><HR><br /><br />From Wareagle<br /><br />Bog, I really think that on shiny aluminum you wouldn't get a real good adhesion to the metal. I think it would start to peel and flake after a period of time. On shiny steel, the results may be a little bit better, but again I see it not having anything to "grab" onto and therefore not lasting long.<br /><br />Another consideration is the effects that the heat from the engine would generate (assuming there is heat) and the effects of the heat on the finish coat. The finish could dull, change to a semi transparent coating, get a colored tint to it, begin to "let go" of the surface, or a combination of any of these.<br /><br />One thing that I will add on painting projects is that cleanliness in absolutely important. I wipe all of the items I paint with acetone or rubbing alcohol (make sure the material is compatible before application)before priming and/or painting. I also handle everything with surgical gloves at this stage as well. A simple finger print can cause problems with the finish and can otherwise ruin a nice looking paint job.<br /><br />As with anything in this hobby, the results are in the details!<br /><HR><br /><br />For this next bit there are no hard and fast rules, I call it 'skinning'.<br />When you make an engine from plans, or design your own, usually a lot of unnecessary material is left on the component just because to hold the part for machining necessitates it.<br />When I have got an engine running to my liking, I then go over each component and remove a lot of the 'spare' material, being careful that I don't cut into any of the mounting holes, thru holes or mating faces. Doing this gives the illusion of a well designed engine and also makes it look a lot more complicated than it really is, rather than a series of square blocks stuck together.<br />A few basic machine cutters do most of the work I want to do. On the miller a roundover bit, a couple of different sized bullnosed (round tipped) cutters and a 45deg chamfer bit, plus of course standard cutters can get most bits done. On the lathe, a pointed chamfer tool (chamfers both left and right and cuts nice thin grooves using the pointy bit at the end, at a push you can use your threading tool), a profile tool (round nosed tool) and left and right hand facing cutters are usually sufficient.<br />If you have the 'meat' available, recess the screws and fixings, it makes the engine look a lot more professional. If there are large flat areas, if thickness allows, put say a 15 thou recess into it to follow the contours of the outside edge, then put a bit of colour into the machined recess, this 'lifts' an engine more than anything else. Contrast works wonders, ali and brass side by side look wonderful, black paint and polished metal looks even better.<br />For the support columns on an engine, just a couple of fine grooves equally spaced at the top and bottom looks like you have taken the time to make it look different. Learn a new technique for doing something, I did on my mine engine with the columns, love them or hate them, you have to admit they do make the engine look different. Drilling a conrod with equally spaced but reducing in size holes gives the illusion of a tapering, super lightweight, machined for performance, after market accessory.<br />The sky is the limit on something like this, look around you, there are designer bits everywhere, if you see something you like in full size, try to replicate it onto your engine, I have just looked away from my monitor and seen maybe ten things in a few seconds that could be incorporated onto an engine surface that will lift it above the norm, grooves, curves, angles, all make something look 'finished', and with a little practise will allow you to make your 'own' engine.<br />There is in all honesty nothing difficult in what I do to my engines to make them look different, other than, time, patience, practice, and a few bits in the recycle bin that didn't turn out as expected, but hey, I am only human (contrary to what some people think).applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-26366827651757136122008-03-13T11:48:00.002-05:002008-03-13T12:48:55.335-05:00Simple tools to buildThere are a lot of simple tools that I'd like to have in the workshop. Here's a list so that someday I might actually get around to making them.<br /><br />Lead and brass hammers (for seating work into the vise, etc)applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9217150686090623136.post-79555100848374554162008-03-05T16:53:00.003-06:002008-03-05T17:07:49.731-06:00Small shopsI love small shops. Particularly the ones that are in a building by themselves. Most of these seem to be owned by British model engineers. Seems like most Americans find room in a basement. There's something comforting about having just the amount of space you need.<br /><br />Bogstandard <a href="http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=137.0">posted</a> the following about his shop on the HMEM board:<br /><br />Here is a little insight into how I do things. First off I built a prefabricated sectional concrete workshop, 16ft x 9ft internal measurement after first laying a 6" thick concrete base, then fully lined the inside and ceiling with 2" insulation board faced with plaster. This keeps me warm in the winter with just a small fan heater.<br />This first pic shows my outside stash, all obtained from either the recycling yard or friends donations, the copper tubes on top are about 4" diameter, plus my sash weights which supply most of my cast iron.<br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5174395444630712274"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/applescotty/R88lPeSc79I/AAAAAAAAAbk/gpIKNkMrsps/s800/1Outsidestash.jpg" /></a><br /><br />This next shot is coming in from the door, notice not a lot of room. the machinery consists of, on the left a 1960's Herbert surface grinder, in the middle an Atlas 10F 42" bed lathe and on the right a standard type mill drill with a cheap 3 axis DRO fitted. I have to go sideways thru the gap and usually end up with watering eyes because the handles reach parts other handles don't.<br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5174395444630712290"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/applescotty/R88lPeSc7-I/AAAAAAAAAbs/tDF_Eyp4r9M/s800/2Machineryend.jpg" /></a><br /><br />This one shows the shop from the machinery end with the metal prep area on the left and build area on the right.<br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5174395453220646898"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/applescotty/R88lP-Sc7_I/AAAAAAAAAb0/SUczz49SaY4/s800/3Viewfrommachineend.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Bit of a closer view of the metal prep area plus my inside stash on the bottom shelves.<br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5174395457515614210"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/applescotty/R88lQOSc8AI/AAAAAAAAAb8/qJKBLP5eqT0/s800/4Metalprepandinsidestash.jpg" /></a><br /><br />Build area consists of a small brazing/heat treatment area plus a marking out area. Next along is another marking area with my tapping stand followed by the engine build area.<br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5174395457515614226"><img src="http://lh4.google.com/applescotty/R88lQOSc8BI/AAAAAAAAAcE/aDw2SuDc-Xs/s800/5Buildarea.jpg" /></a><br /><br />This last shot is my workhorse, The Atlas 10F lathe, nearly 70 years old, but I have brought it right up to date by fitting a Timken roller bearing head, Myford resettable dials, quick change toolpost plus loads of other small modifications. This lathe is now super accurate, especially since I fitted a 5c collet chuck.<br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5174395676558946338"><img src="http://lh3.google.com/applescotty/R88lc-Sc8CI/AAAAAAAAAcM/BTYOTPWshFc/s800/6OldAtlaslathe.jpg" /></a><br /><br /><HR><br />About the green press with the flywheels, he says:<br /><br />It is called a toggle press.<br />It is hand operated but the 'flywheels' help to make for a very strong punching press. With a correctly angled punch, 3/16" brass sheet is punched straight thru. I use it mainly for blanking out brass and copper discs and pressure assembly of parts.<br />Not many about nowadays, but if you can get hold of any old stuff, snap their hands off.<br /><br /><HR><br /><br />firebird <a href="http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?topic=598.0">posted</a> about his on HMEM. Here's one photo:<br /><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/applescotty/ScrapbookPhotos/photo#5174397420315668530"><img src="http://lh5.google.com/applescotty/R88nCeSc8DI/AAAAAAAAAcU/vJW7_rBA21M/s800/DSC06224.jpg" /></a><br /><br />There's two things I particularly like about this. First is his long stock storage under the bench. The other is the containers he has on casters under the bench. Very effective use of space.applescottyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06884704693628610123noreply@blogger.com